Brake rotors for imported vehicles are also more sensitive to warping from heat, and overheated brakes are the second most common cause of failure after wear-and-tear. Save money. Use these tips for Honda brake repairs and parts:

Inspect Your Honda's Brakes with eyes and ears open

Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months. Here are some things to look for:
Brake Rotors (discs) should be inspected all the way around the surface and on both sides for any concentric scoring (grooves) or obvious defects. Replace the rotors immediately if defects are found. Any rotor discoloration may be a sign of overheating and an inspection by a Honda brake repair professional is needed.
Brake Pads will normally match rotor scoring but should also be inspected for uneven wear, breakage or cracking on the friction surface. Again, if defects are found, replace the pads immediately. Many cars also have brake pad sensors to warn of pad wear. Remember, if your Honda uses sensors, these need to be replaced at the same time as your pads.
Brake Drums (if equipped) should also be inspected on a regular basis. Check for the same types of flaws as noted above. The drums should not have excessive grooves or have a deep "trough" dug into them where the shoes ride.
Brake Shoes (if equipped) should be worn evenly and have no rivets protruding out to the friction surface.
Additional Troubleshooting: When you inspect brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage as well.
Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.
Do look out for a "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.
If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least, your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.

To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises. Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal. Sounds to beware of include:
Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.
Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In the worst case, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.
Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!
Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.
Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your Honda in an emergency.
You may avoid physical harm but delay in fixing brake problems may escalate your cost of doing so.
Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.
Even if you like doing your own work, every few years, your Honda brakes should be examined by a Honda professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also unearth hidden problems that could eventually cost you your valuable resources of time, safety and money.

Important Things to Remember

Use these tips to keep your Honda Brakes in tip-top shape!
Tip #1: Keep the hydraulic reservoir at the proper level with the fluid type recommended by Honda. Never substitute or mix types of fluid. Also remember that hydraulic fluid absorbs water. Old hydraulic fluid is a complete No-No. Always use a fresh container.
Tip #2: Keep brakes clean by washing them off at the same time as your car. This keeps squeaky dust and dirt off the pads and makes it easier to inspect and work on.
Tip #3: Never spray, touch or drip any oil or lubricants on the brake friction surfaces. If this occurs, spray immediately with brake cleaner to remove completely.
Tip #4: There are no shortcuts or quick fixes to brake problems. They either function properly or they don't. Know your brake system - how it should work, feel and sound - before it acts up. You'll know when some thing's wrong.
Tip #5: Most import cars don't have serviceable rotors. They must be replaced at the same time as the pads. The rotors cannot be "turned" to remove imperfections simply because there isn't sufficient metal thickness to safely accomplish this.
Tip #6: Keep a repair log with receipts when any service is performed on your Honda. It helps when you need to check if your warranty is still in effect. More importantly, it's a great gauge of performance and an indicator of other problems.
Tip #7: Whenever the pads are replaced, the hydraulic system must be bled to remove any air bubbles. Most Honda specialists recommend changing the fluid with every pad replacement. If you're unsure of the proper technique for bleeding the hydraulic system, don't perform the job yourself. Seek help from a Honda professional. ABS equipped cars should be bled only by professionals.
Tip #8: Most noises are usually related to your pads. However, whenever replacing pads, you should also replace the sensors and seriously consider replacing the rotors at the same time.
Tip #9: After installing new pads, remember to "set" them properly. This conditions them for maximum performance and prevents premature failure. Instructions for setting pads are usually provided in the package with your new pads.

Honda Brake Parts Shopping List

When shopping for Honda brake parts, remember two important things:
1. OEM/OES (original equipment manufactured/supplied) or equivalent pads and rotors are not always cheap. You are of course assured of value for money. OE parts will give you the most trouble-free driving and peace of mind. Now, isn't that what's most important?
2. Before requesting any brake parts for your Honda, make sure you have the year, exact model designation, engine size and type, brake configuration, type of rotors (solid or vented), vehicle ID number (VIN) and production date. For Volvos, you'll also need rotor diameter, caliper manufacturer and mount and shape of the pads.
Consider the following list of parts when working on Honda brake systems:
- Front Brake Rotors (Brake Discs) -
- Front Brake Pads -
- Rear Brake Rotors (Brake Discs) or Rear Brake Drums -
- Rear Brake Pads or Brake Shoes -
- Brake Sensors (front and/or rear, as applicable)
- Brake Calipers or Caliper Rebuild Kits -
- Wheel Cylinders -
- Hydraulic Hoses -
- Hose/Tube Fittings -
- Brake Master Cylinder -
- Power Booster -
- Reservoir & Grommets -
- Brake Proportioning Valve Assembly -
- Hydraulic & Brake Fluid -
- Brake Cleaner -
- Anti-Squeal Compound -

IMPORTANT

Check for updates on repair articles regularly for new additions. Find new Trouble shooting items related to maintenance. This exercise to generate repair tips is only a start off point. For all repair problems beyond your capabilities, Please seek the assistance of a professional Honda mechanic.

Your cooling system performs a crucial function. Quite simply, it maintains proper engine temperature by circulating coolant through the engine to pick up heat and passing it through a radiator to cool it with air. The coolant passes through a thermostat valve to control flow and possibly over a temperature sensor which controls external air cooling fans.

Cooling systems in automobiles consist of three main parts:

Part #1: Honda Water Pump

Your Honda water pump regulates the circulation of the coolant fluid. The main Honda water pump is gear or belt-driven, but some other cars may have a secondary electric water pump which is used for improved flow and cooling. The drive belt that turns the water pump has a critical role in its operation. On most new models, this is the engine's timing belt. On older models, the water pump and belt are external and run off the main crankshaft pulley with a "V" or flat belt.

Maintenance of Honda water pump is easier with scheduled coolant replacement and drive-belt replacement and tension adjustment (external type). Timing-belt-driven pumps should always be replaced at the same time as the timing belt and tensioner.

Part #2: Honda Cooling Hoses

Your Honda cooling system's piping consists of hoses, many control valves, the heater core, the radiator and the expansion tank. Because of the materials used and the constant contact with coolant, all parts in this system deteriorate more with ageing than due to wear and tear. Maintenance of cooling system piping consists of scheduled coolant replacement, replacement of all hoses on a regular basis and replacement of any plugged or leaking parts.

At least twice a year, all hoses should be checked for abrasions, cracks, flexibility and evidence of leakage. Whenever the coolant is drained for replacement or during engine repairs, any suspect hoses should be replaced. All hoses should be replaced at justified intervals. Radiators, expansion tanks, heater cores and control valves are normally only replaced due to leakage or plugging. The condition of these parts should be assessed only by an Honda professional since proper functioning is critical to many other systems within your Honda.

Part #3: Honda Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors

Your cooling system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors, thermostat, radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either through cooling or by sending control signals to your Honda' electronic systems.

The thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes depending on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a defunct thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.

The radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It optimizes system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Do Not use other caps except for short-term emergencies!

A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the radiator is usually on the water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).

An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the radiator or upper radiator hose or on the thermostat or water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".

Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your Honda vehicle may have other sensors as well.

Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's all the more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.

Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Periodic cleaning both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits proves helpful.

Important Things to Remember

Commit to these tips for proactive maintenance of your cooling system and rest assured of its performance.

Honda Engine Compartment Tip #1: Clean your engine and engine compartment, as well as your radiator fins and grill, as often as possible. A clean engine runs much cooler - and is much easier to work on.

Honda Coolant Tip #2: Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type, mixture and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap.

Honda Cooling Hose Tip #3: Replace all cooling system hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, heater hoses, manifold coolant hoses and any other hoses on your vehicle - whenever you even suspect there may be a problem. All hoses should be replaced at least every two years.

Honda Thermostat Tip #4: Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.

Honda Radiator Tank Cap Tip #5: Replace the radiator/expansion tank cap with the original pressure setting and OE-type equivalent. Some aftermarket substitutions do not seal and hold pressure properly on foreign-manufactured cars. Please Do Not substitute.

Honda Water Pump Belt Tip #6: Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. Check belts whenever you're working on any coolant system components.

Honda Water Pump Tip #7: Replace your water pump with an OEM/OES pump at the first signs of trouble or when your timing belt and tensioner are replaced. Watch for signs of overheating - you can avoid a break-down in the hot sun due to water pump failure.

Honda Fan Clutch Tip #8: Your Honda' temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan clutch needs attention. Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable).

Honda Temperature Sensor Tip #9: Replace temperature sensors as required by diagnosis. Leave troubleshooting of your sensors to Honda technicians who have the proper equipment diagrams and expertise.

Honda Maintenance Tip #10: Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's temperature. Your Honda' cooling system is designed to function in sync with all other systems on board. It cannot make up for a poorly operating or overheating engine condition.

Let's take a bird's eye view of the basics of this critical fuel injection part. Either located inside or near the fuel tank, the fuel pump's job is twofold:

- To push fuel from the tank to the injectors, and
- To create sufficient pressure so the injectors will deliver the correct amount of fuel under all operating conditions.

The pressure developed by the pump, as well as the volume of fuel it flows, must both meet the vehicle manufacturers' requirements, or engine performance economy and emissions will suffer. The amount of fuel pressure required for a given application will vary depending on the type of injection system (L-Jetronic, CIS, Motronic, etc.), the flow characteristics of the injectors and the engine's fuel requirements.

For example, certain Honda models with Bosch Motronic require 55 to 61 psi (3.8 to 4.2 BAR) of static pressure measured with the engine off. By comparison, a Honda may require 43 psi (3.0 BAR) on some models or 48 psi (3.3 BAR) on others. The differences may not seem like much, but a few pounds of fuel pressure can have a significant impact on engine performance and emissions.

Why Fuel Flow & Fuel Pressure Are So Important

A fuel pump that doesn't meet the OE minimum fuel flow or pressure requirements for your Honda can cause drivability and emissions problems. A weak fuel pump or one that can't generate enough pressure can upset the calibration of your fuel system. This may cause the engine to run lean or starve for fuel under load, causing symptoms such as hard starting (hot or cold), poor idle quality, hesitation or stumbling when accelerating and a loss of high-speed power.

Low fuel pressure can also be a cause of lean misfire at idle and under load, which causes a dramatic increase in hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. A car experiencing this kind of problem usually won't pass an "enhanced" emissions test that measures exhaust emissions under simulated driving conditions on a dynamometer. Low fuel pressure and/or lean misfire can also trigger the engine warning lamp on 1996 and newer cars equipped with OBD II (on-board diagnostics).

So, if the original fuel pump is weak or has failed, it's important to make sure your replacement fuel pump meets all Honda OE fuel performance specifications. Bosch pumps do match Honda OE requirements, but many brands don't - so beware when purchasing a new fuel pump for your Honda. Remember - you pay high only for quality. It is really NOT worth risking severe damage to your fuel injection system.

Why Fuel Pumps Fail

Electric fuel pumps are at work constantly, so after many years of service they can experience wear in the armature bushings, brushes and commutator. Pump vanes, rollers or gears can also wear causing a gradual loss of pressure and flow. Accelerated wear may also occur if sediment or rust gets past the inlet filter sock. In some instances, a pump will fail because contaminants entered the pump and jammed it, causing the motor to overheat and burn out.

Your Honda's fuel pump relies on fuel passing through it for lubrication and cooling. Consequently, fuel starvation can be another factor that accelerates wear and may even cause pump damage under certain operating conditions.

Honda Fuel Pump Diagnosis

The first thing to be checked if your fuel pump stops working (no noise, no line pressure), is the voltage supply and electrical connections of the pump. An open relay, blown fuse or loose wire may be all that's preventing the pump from working. Low battery voltage can also reduce the pump's ability to generate pressure by reducing the speed of the pump motor.

Measuring static output pressure and fuel delivery are the two standard diagnostic tests that can be used to determine a pump's ability to deliver fuel.

Static pressure is measured with a gauge attached to the fuel rail or teed into the fuel supply line with the engine off and pump energized. Fuel flow is measured by disconnecting the fuel supply line, energizing the pump for a specified number of seconds (engine off) and measuring the volume of fuel delivered into a container.

If static pressure or the volume of fuel delivered is less than your car manufacturer's specifications, your fuel pump needs to be replaced. Replacement would also be required if the pump's check valve has failed (inability to hold residual pressure in the system after the ignition is turned off).

Honda Replacement Fuel Pump Precautions

Selecting the "right" replacement fuel pump involves more than looking up the year, make, model and engine size of your Honda. It also means choosing a pump that meets all Honda OE performance specifications and fits the same as your original - Bosch pumps do, but many other brands don't. Bosch is, of course, the company that pioneered fuel injection technology.

To maximize coverage with the fewest number of part numbers, some major aftermarket companies have taken consolidation to the extreme. They have over-consolidated their fuel pump applications by using only a few fuel pumps for a wide range of car applications.

Performance and fit problems are often caused because of the many different performance requirements and pump designs used in today's cars,. For example, when fuel pumps from three of Bosch's competitors were compared against the OE specifications for the cars the pumps supposedly fit, some glaring shortcomings were discovered:

Example #1: One pump from Competitor A covers 70 OEM part numbers, yet has a fuel delivery rate 42 to 50 percent less than the OE specifications.

Example #2: A pump from Competitor B also covers 70 OEM part numbers, but has a fuel delivery rate 25 percent less than OE specifications.

Example #3: One pump from Competitor C covers a whopping 153 OEM part numbers but has a fuel delivery rate 30 to 42 percent less than many OE specifications and exceeds OE electric consumption by 33 to 50 percent!

Example #4: Some Bosch competitors were found to be using fuel pumps that are a different size or type than the original. Competitor B uses a 38mm diameter pump for 51mm diameter pump applications. To make it fit, they include a rubber sleeve. To make matters worse, the pump's outlet pipe location is off-center, which causes the pump to jut out half an inch more than the OE fuel pump. The same company also substitutes an inner-gear style pump for cars that were originally equipped with a turbine pump, which can cause unwanted pressure fluctuations and noise.

Example #5: Another trick some competitors employ is to use the same inlet filter screen on a wide variety of cars. Companies A, B and C all use only one filter screen for more than 20 different OEM applications. This results in a poor fit on some cars because of variations in the shape of the fuel pot reservoir inside the tank.

Consequences of One-Size-Fits-All Fuel Pumps

Do you know the consequences of over-consolidating pump applications? Inadequate fuel delivery is by far the most serious concern. Based on test comparisons with OE specifications, many of these aftermarket "one-size-fits-all" replacement fuel pumps do not meet OE performance specifications. Even though they may fit a particular vehicle application, they may not be capable of meeting the car's fuel needs under all driving conditions.

The result can be fuel starvation, lean misfire, hesitation, elevated emissions, poor fuel economy and poor drivability. This is especially critical with turbocharged engines that require a rapid increase in fuel flow under boost conditions. A pump that can't keep up may allow the mixture to go dangerously lean, resulting in deterioration and loss of power.

Also what needs to be remembered is that fuel also helps cool the pump, so a pump with reduced flow capacity will run hotter and would most probably experience accelerated wear. Long-term durability may suffer as a result.

A replacement pump that is a different size and does not fit the same as the original can create installation problems as well. The pump may interfere with other components such as the fuel gauge sending unit, or it may not fit the pump bracket very well, resulting in noise and vibration. Bosch pumps, by comparison, look, fit and function exactly like the original. No installation hassles. No adapters. No problems.

Using a different type of replacement pump can also cause problems. Car manufacturers specify certain types of fuel pumps (roller-cell, inner-gear or turbine) for a specific reason. The pump is an integral part of the fuel system, so its pressure, flow and electrical characteristics must match the rest of the system. Substituting one type of pump for another may create a mismatch that results in drivability, durability or noise problems.

Trying to use "one-size-fits-all" filter inlet screens also means the sock may not fit right. If the filter screen is too large for the reservoir inside the tank, it may break allowing contaminants to enter the pump and fuel system. If the filter is too small, it may create a restriction or not take in enough fuel when cornering or when the tank is low and allow air to enter the pump. This may damage the pump or allow air to be sucked into the fuel line causing poor hot starting, vapor lock, lack of power or other driveability and performance problems. A poor-quality screen may not keep contaminants out of the pump and may fail to separate water from the fuel allowing water to enter the pump and fuel system.

By comparison, Bosch fuel pump inlet filters are designed to fit perfectly. A specifically designed, tightly woven filter mesh stops contaminants as small as 60 microns to extend pump life. Bosch filters also keep out water to prevent corrosion damage to the pump and other fuel system components.

Bosch (New) vs. Re-manufactured Pumps

Re-manufactured fuel pumps are another concern. Their lower price may appeal to some buyers, but what do they get for their money? Not much and increased risk. An analysis of re-manufactured fuel pumps from a major after-market re-manufacturer found that fuel delivery rates did not meet OE specifications. It was also found that carbon brushes and commutators inside the pump motor had not even been replaced! There was even rust on the surface of some pump housings.

Do Not take a chance on a poor quality re-manufactured fuel pump with questionable performance and reliability when you can buy a brand new quality-built Bosch fuel pump.

Bosch is the industry leader in fuel injection technology. Bosch developed the first fuel injection system with a high-pressure electric fuel pump in 1967 and continues to pioneer innovative designs and technology. Bosch currently manufactures more than 250 different fuel pumps that cover more than 95 percent of import and domestic applications and is a leading supplier of fuel pumps to vehicle manufacturers worldwide - Alfa Romeo, Honda, Honda, Chrysler, Ferrari, Fiat, Ford, General Motors, Honda, Hyundai, Isuzu, Jaguar, Kia, Mazda, Mercedes-Benz, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Opel, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, Rolls Royce, Rover, Saab, Subaru, Suzuki, Toyota, Volkswagen, and Volvo.

Bosch fuel pumps are second to none. State-of-the-art manufacturing and quality-control technology is used to make sure every Bosch pump meets or exceeds all OE specifications.

Bosch offers all three types of fuel pumps (roller-cell, inner-gear and turbine) in its pump line, so you can be sure the pump you get is the correct one for your vehicle application. No one-size-fits-all pumps. No doubts about whether or not the pump meets OE specifications. Bosch fuel pumps guarantee optimum performance required by each fuel injection system.

Features & Benefits of Bosch Fuel Pumps

Benefit #1: Field proven durability in more than 50 million vehicles worldwide!

Benefit #2: All Bosch fuel pumps are 100% new. No salvaged or remanufactured components.

Benefit #3: Superior product quality. State-of-the-art manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that every Bosch electric fuel pump produced meets or exceeds all OE requirements.

Benefit #4: Unlike some competitive pumps, all Bosch fuel pumps perform to OE flow rate specifications to ensure proper drivability and acceleration.

Benefit #5: Original equipment design looks, installs and functions exactly like the original.

A Few Important Things to Remember

Heed the following repair tips when installing a new fuel pump to avoid fuel system problems in your Honda:

Tip #1: Whether a fuel pump is mounted inside a fuel tank or externally, the inside of the tank should always be inspected and cleaned if rust or debris is found in the pump or filter. Replacing a pump without cleaning a dirty tank will doom the new pump to premature failure.

Tip #2: If you're replacing an in-tank fuel pump, always disconnect the battery to prevent any unwanted sparks. Then drain the tank before removing the tank straps and opening the pump's retaining collar. Keep all flames and sparks away!

Tip #3: When installing the new fuel pump, always replace the filter screen and use a new O-ring or gasket for the sealing collar.

Tip #4: Do not "test" a new pump before it has been installed by jumping it. Running a pump in a dry condition with no fuel to lubricate it risks damaging it. Do not run the pump until fuel has been added to the tank. Also, replace any braided or rubber fuel lines that are flaking or cracked with the correct type of EFI hose.

In spite of many primordial methods of diagnosing audio aberrations being still in popular use, the stethoscope is the best. It's a lot easier than putting your own ear to an automobile engine. Listed here are a few general guidelines to what your Honda's noises might mean:

BANG: A sharp, startling sound, like a rifle shot, means you're dealing with the dreaded backfire. You'll probably be able to trace this to something that's causing a rich air/fuel mixture. In the past you might have zeroed in on a heavy carb float, but today think about faulty signals from coolant temp or O2 sensors. The catalytic converter may also be damaged. Another possibility is a clogged monolithic converter blowing through. This will only occur once and will be accompanied by an amazing increase in power. If your car has air injection, perhaps the diverter valve is no longer functional.

BOOM: A hollow, low-frequency sound/sensation, this makes you feel as if you're riding inside a metal drum and the atmospheric pressure is rapidly changing between positive and negative. On rear wheel-drive cars, check out the drive-shaft and its u-joints because if it's spinning out-of-true, it will cause waves that push up on the floor of your car.

BUZZ: An annoying "bzzzzzzzzz" sound, like a trapped insect, can usually be traced to untrue positioning of interior trim parts. Have somebody else drive while you press, pry and pound on every likely spot.

CHIRP: This sounds like birds are nesting under your hood. It could be a maladjusted or misaligned belt, but don't ignore the idler pulley. Or, it could just be your tires when you hit second gear.

CLANG or CLANK: This sound couldn't possibly be emitted by any light, flimsy parts. It's coming from a heavy, essential component, such as a set of gears. A good example is the sound a bad rear axle pinion bearing makes when you drop the transmission into Drive, then Reverse.

CLICK or CLACK: This sounds like James Bond working the slide of his automatic gun. When in an engine, it is typically repeated rhythmically though. With OHV, perhaps a stuck lifter is allowing clearance in the pushrod/rocker valve, or maybe a solid lifter is just out of adjustment. On carbureted cars, check out the fuel pump before you start opening up the motor. When emanating from the nether regions of the front end during a turn, this sound may be traced to an outboard CV joint.

CLUNK: A heavy bumping sound, softer than a clang, usually indicates you should look at suspension bushings, including shock or strut mounts. Or check out for a loose strut gland nut?

FLAPPING: If it's not due to a colony of bats under the hood, maybe a belt's coming apart. Fan interference is another possibility. Regardless, this calls for a visual inspection of sorts.

GRINDING: A horrible, torturous sound, like a bad dentist would make while working with obsolete equipment, means something's going askew - and fast. If it occurs when the brakes are applied, either the linings are gone or you've got one of those unpleasantly-aggressive friction material formulas that tend to eat rotors.

GROAN: Something's dry, probably a suspension component. If it's metal, it's going to break really soon. If it's rubber, try some silicone lube.

GRUNT: Again, a dry joint somewhere in the underpinnings is likely. If it's in the stoppers, suspect rear drum shoes contaminated with brake fluid or gear lube from a defunct axle seal.

HISS: If it's continuous and changes with rpms, it may be normal belt noise. Otherwise, a slow leak in the cooling system is likely. A black light will help you find this.

HUM: We don't mean what the radio does between stations, but the noise a differential or wheel bearing makes. If it responds to acceleration/deceleration, suspect the differential. Then look into the bearings. Unfortunately, it's often very difficult to tell which side (or even which end) the hum's coming from.

KNOCK: This sound is deep and hollow like knuckles on a wooden door. Often it's a warning that something important (and expensive) is about to conk off.

You may be foxed by what sounds like a loose pin to be a defunct rod bearing, but with a little patience you should be able to determine what's at fault.

First, check idle oil pressure even if you have to screw in a mechanical gauge. If it's low, you can bias your decision toward bearings.

Next, listen with your stethoscope. A rod bearing makes more noise at the oil pan than elsewhere, and a wrist pin more racket up on the water jacket. Hold RPMs at 2500, jerk the throttle open and let it snap closed. This will accentuate rod knock, whereas pin noise won't change very much.

Now's the time to starting shorting out cylinders. A bad pin will quiet down, but a rod knock will double its cadence.

Finally, you can pull the pan for a visual inspection. If the bearings are good, you know you've got a pin problem.

PING: Sort of like little ball bearings being poured on a tin roof, this sound is detonation (aka spark knock) - a phenomenon in which the air/fuel charge explodes violently instead of burning smoothly. There are many potential causes here from clogged EGR passages and overheating to excessive spark advance and, with spark knock suppression, a defunct detonation sensor. Hook up your timing light then tap on the engine near the sensor to see if the spark retards.

POP: This sounds like a shotgun being fired through a mattress. It usually means the engine's coughing back through the intake. A sticking or leaking valve is a distinct possibility, as is jumped valve timing, particularly with a belt-driven OHC. Then there's ignition, which may be firing way too early due to a twisted distributor, cap/rotor/wire problems, a faulty position sensor or a breakdown in the module. Also, if your Honda's running quite lean, opening the throttle to lots of cold air can induce this reaction.

RATTLE: They didn't coin the term "rattle trap" for nothing, you know. People have been fighting this annoying noise since the automobile was invented. Thanks to plastics, better rubbers and more highly engineered fasteners, rattles are less prevalent than they once were. But you'll still get them, usually in the undercarriage somewhere. Likely culprits include exhaust system parts, calipers or loose brake pads.

ROAR: If it's not something obvious like a blown exhaust system, maybe the transmission is never shifting into high or overdrive. With a manual transmission, the clutch might be slipping. Fan clutches usually fail by never engaging, not the opposite, but it's still a possibility. If it's general road noise, you could switch to less aggressive tires or add undercoating to your Honda.

RUMBLE: While a pleasant enough throaty sound when it's from a free-flowing exhaust system, it can easily cross over into the unacceptable sound range. But don't choke the power down with an overly restrictive cheap muffler. For tire and road noise, see "ROAR".

SCRAPING: Something like "jeet-jeet-jeet-jeet" that speeds up as the car gathers speed probably means an object of one sort or another is contacting the driveshaft, possibly an exhaust shield or hanger or the parking brake cable. Your brake system, especially drum hardware, is also a distinct possibility.

SCREECH: "SQUEAL" taken to the max. See "SQUEAL".

SIZZLING: Like the sound of bacon frying, this is usually only Hondable with the engine off. Oil may be leaking onto the exhaust manifold or a minor coolant seepage may be occurring.

SQUEAL: This sound is usually related to brakes and belts. On the former, maybe you're down to the pad wear indicators. Or the discs and semi-metallic linings aren't getting along due to poor rotor finishing or washing, an assembly error, a troublesome friction formula or the like. Squealing is certainly common in disc brakes, but clunking can also occur on initial application if the shoes are loosely mounted. In the case of belts, check if they are loose, worn or contaminated.

TAP: Much the same as a click, sort of like beating on the intake manifold with a screwdriver blade, this is usually valvetrain-related. Think about stuck lifters or an adjustment that provides too much lash.

WHINE: Just as annoying as a cranky toddler does. This is a hard one to pin down, but it's apt to come from worn ball or roller bearings, mismatched gears, too light a lube in a manual gearbox (ATF, maybe?) or alternator bushings getting ready to go.

WHIR: The sound made by happy mechanicals. It's one of the few noises you probably shouldn't worry about.

WHISTLE: Usually occurring at higher speeds, it's probably wind noise. But do double check if the latches and tumblehome are properly adjusted. Are the body gaskets in good shape?

Oil pressure - in fact the lack of it - in certain parts of your Honda's engine can become a major repair nightmare. All engines lose a certain amount of oil pressure over time as normal wear increases bearing clearances. But unusually low oil pressure in an engine, regardless of mileage, is often an indication that something is seriously wrong and requires immediate repairs.

That "tappet" noise may be only one sticking lifter but it may also indicate an oil flow problem that will eventually cause damage to at least one valve.

A flickering oil light is more difficult to troubleshoot if your engine is not obviously in need of major repair work.

Modern engines with hydraulic lifters, tight tolerance bearings and miniature oil filters require minute periodic monitoring of oil pressure.

The following diagnostic tips (excerpted from "Troubleshooting Low Oil Pressure", Underhood Service, 10/97) will help you determine whether you have a major repair problem or just a minor annoyance.

Diagnostic Tips for Honda Oil Pressure

A good place to start your diagnosis of a low pressure condition is at the dipstick. Check the oil to see that it's at the proper level (neither low nor overfilled). If low, the engine may be burning or leaking oil. Adding oil may temporarily remedy the low pressure condition, but unless the level is properly maintained, the problem may recur.

If the engine is leaking oil, try new gaskets or seals to fix the leak. If the engine is burning oil, the valve guides and seals are most likely worn, but the rings and cylinders might be bad, too. A wet compression test and/or leakdown test will tell you if it's the valve guides or rings and cylinders that are worn.

The least expensive fix in the case of worn guides is to install new valve guide seals (if possible) without pulling the head. The best fix is to pull the heads and have the guides lined, knurled, replaced or reamed for oversized valve stems. Worn rings and cylinders would call for a complete overhaul.

Also take a look at the condition of the oil and make sure it's the correct viscosity for your Honda and local climate.

Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure. That's why most car and OE parts manufacturers recommend 5W-30 in modern engines for year-round driving.

If the level is okay, the next thing to check would probably be the pressure sending unit. Disconnect the unit and check the warning lamp or gauge reading. If the warning light remains on with the sending unit disconnected, there's probably a short to ground in the warning lamp circuit. Likewise, if there's no change in a gauge reading, the problem is in the instrumentation, not the engine.

Since bad sending units are quite common, many mechanics replace the unit without checking anything else to see if that cures the problem. This approach although time saving, is risky because unless you measure pressure directly with a gauge attached to the engine, you have no way of knowing if pressure is within specifications or not.

Most warning lamps don't light up until pressure is dangerously low (less than four or five pounds). So don't assume the absence of a warning lamp means pressure is okay, especially if the engine is making any valve or bearing noise. If a check of pressure reveals unusually low readings, check the filter. It's possible the filter might be plugged with gunk. Maybe you should change the filter and monitor the pressure.

The next step is to drop the oil pan and check the oil pump pickup screen. If the screen is clogged with debris, you've found the problem. Also, check to see whether the pickup tube is properly mounted and positioned is firmly attached to the pump (no leaks) and is not obstructed.

If the pump is mounted inside the crankcase, the next step might be to remove and inspect the pump. Open the pump cover and measure clearances. Also, check for scoring or other damage. A broken pump drive would tell you something entered and jammed the pump. If the pump is worn or damaged, replacement is your only option.

Now, the next step - if the pump appears to be okay, measure the rod and main bearing clearances. Check the clearances on the main bearing closest to the pump (this has the greatest effect on pressure) and clearances on the furthest rod bearing (this will show the greatest wear). If the bearings are worn, they need to be replaced. But before you do so, carefully inspect and measure the crankshaft journals to check for wear, scoring, out-of-round and taper. If the journals need attention, the crank will also have to be reground or replaced.

Other diagnostic checks might include camshaft end play and/or pulling a valve cover or the intake manifold to check the cam bearings and lifters.

Beware- excessive clearances or leaks anywhere in the engine's oil supply system-they can contribute to low pressure.

Once you've identified and repaired discovered problems, your final check is to start the engine and make sure pressure is within Honda specifications. Use a mechanical pressure gauge and don't rely on the dash gauge or the warning light to verify that the repairs you've made have eliminated your problem.

One Final Warning

If you insist on driving blind and deaf to the obvious warnings coming from under your Honda's hood, the next sound you hear may be a rapping or knock noise from the rod bearings - which will eventually be followed by dead silence as your engine ceases and your Honda coasts to a dead stop.

OE, OEM and OES (Factory) Auto Parts

OEM (original equipment manufactured) and OES (original equipment supplied) many times are one and the same. OE, of course, is a more generic term that refers to the brand that came as original equipment on the car. Most auto manufacturers assemble cars from purchased components and manufacture only the sheet metal components. Therefore, the "factory part" you buy from your Honda dealer was most likely made by another company, sold to Honda and then resold to the dealer for ultimate sale to you.

An important point many people are unaware of is the fact that multiple OES brands are not only normal but are actually mandated by international standards as part of the qualifications for ISO certification. Car manufacturers must have secondary sourcing (i.e. multiple suppliers) for certain types of parts in order that any problems with one supplier will not disable the car manufacturer's production and allow for substitution of the other brand for new production and any warranty replacement or repairs.

As an example, the original VDO pump may be interchanged with the Bosch unit with equal performance; the ZKW foglight may be interchanged with the Hella unit or the Norbbitt brake rotors replaced with Zimmermann.

You may get your Honda parts in another company's packaging because we deal directly with so many OEM/OES companies, and stock the exact same parts. You may find them cheaper too!

Why pay for all those middlemen when you can get the exact same part at Klein Honda? Klein Honda perseveres to supply one or all of the original equipment brands when available - You save cost on the most commonly used brand simply because it is the most available one.

Our price may be 20%-90% below your Honda dealer's price but we are certainly not letting go of quality-rest assured it's the same as the part from the dealer. cutting out the overhead caused by too many middlemen. You're just being spared the overheads incurred by the middlemen.

Dealer Only Parts

"Why can't I find replacement parts for my 2003 Honda in the aftermarket?" We hear this question so often on non-maintenance type parts and it's frustrating for both you and for us.

Most Hondas do require some repair work in the first or second year. Unfortunately, some parts for these repairs may still only be available through the Honda dealer.

Often OEM and OES companies cannot release OE parts for "new" cars into the aftermarket (because of licensing agreements) until a few years have passed. This restriction allows the car maker to recoup tooling costs, build in repair revenues for the dealers and justify larger OEM production runs to keep costs down.

Although irritating that some parts are "dealer only", it's in your best interest for warranty purposes. As new car warranties get longer, the dealer must maintain cars that fail to perform for longer periods of time. In the case of emission-related parts, the U.S. government has regulated many of these warranties to keep up with EPA rules. So if you're driving a newer Honda, you may need the dealer for a few more years on certain items.

OEM/OES vs. Aftermarket Parts

An aftermarket part is generally a copy of the original part. The lower price is predictably proportional to quality- hence you could end up spending more over easily avoidable repairs.

There are, of course, exceptions to this rule as car makers try to reduce assembly costs by going to lower cost alternatives on parts that wear out and routine maintenance parts.

Many commonplace aftermarket mass merchandisers sell only "copies" of OE parts. Beware of their cost-efficient ways of competing with other parts stores. Of course their customers mostly care about price rather than performance anyways.

OEM/OES Brands Available at Klein Honda

Klein Honda doesn't believe in cheap aftermarket imitations. We don't use inferior parts. We'd rather have a select clientele of satisfied, knowledgeable customers than a million customers who don't understand the difference.

At Klein Honda we emphasize on the fit, quality and performance of parts and our customers know the importance of these factors for their Honda repairs.

Get the best available part for the job! We routinely test new brands to find the highest quality products for our customers. We've spent nearly 25 years researching the best available brands for each and every type of part we sell. And, we only stock those brands that meet our stringent price/quality requirements We also believe in giving customers choices. Many parts are stocked in both the OEM/OES brand and a lower cost alternative that's at least equal to the quality of the OE brand. This gives you the choice between the OE part and a higher quality alternative.

Here are just a few OEM/OES brands stocked at Klein Honda

Robert Bosch Company is the single largest parts supplier for European cars. What started as Robert Bosch's "Workshop for Precision and Electrical Engineering" over 100 years ago, has become one of today's most successful engineering enterprises.

Pioneers of fuel injection technology over 30 years ago, Bosch is the industry leader in fuel injection technology and is the major OE supplier to nearly all car manufacturers worldwide. Bosch developed the first fuel injection system with a high-pressure electric fuel pump in 1967 and continues to pioneer innovative designs and technology.

Bosch ignition systems are OE on most European cars and have been for many, many years. Whether it's an old points-and-condenser type distributor or the latest high-tech distributorless ignition system, Bosch built the unit for the car marker. The replacement parts - from cap, rotor, points, condenser and Hall sender to distributorless coils and connectors - are all the original parts or the updated version of them from Bosch.

Bosch also offers the best warranty in the marketplace. They stand behind all products for a minimum of 12 full months, unlimited mileage! They also provide a 2-year roadside assistance warranty on starters and alternators - they'll pay for your jump start or tow should one of these products fail. Bosch offers a lifetime warranty on wire sets!

Bosch manufactures thousands of different components for cars - from fuel pumps to air flow meters to electronic switches and relays to headlights and filters. In fact, Bosch is the OE brand at most car manufacturers worldwide.

As a Bosch Warehouse Distributor, Autohaus stocks thousands of Bosch products for your import car and can special order thousands more. Is it any wonder people worldwide come to Autohaus for all their Bosch needs?

Sachs-Boge (The Mannesmann-Sachs group of companies) includes Boge suspension (shocks/struts, bushings, etc.), Boge rubber-to-metal (engine mounts, suspension mounts, bushings, etc.), Stabilus gas springs (hood, trunk and tailgate shocks, convertible top cover supports, etc.), Fichtel-Sachs drivetrain (clutches, fan clutches, etc.) and Mintex brake products (Mintex/Textar brake pads).

Boge suspension and rubber-to-metal have been the European supplier of shocks/struts, bushings and mounts to the auto makers since 1931, with manufacturing plants in 72 countries around the world. With their outstanding lifetime warranty of shocks/struts, you never have to worry about the performance and longevity of the parts.

And, Fichtel-Sachs/Borg & Beck clutches have been OE (original equipment) on European cars in one form or another for over 100 years. Still the world leader in clutch technology and innovation, Sachs clutches are found in cars the world over, including US car makes.

Mintex brake products also have over 100 years experience supplying the auto makers of Europe, including the manufacture of Textar OE brake pads on Mercedes. It was the first brake pad company in Europe to earn the new "Regulation 90" approval for safety in meeting or exceeding OE specifications on its pads. All the pads are built to OE specifications for material compound, are non-asbestos for health safety and are low dusting for cleanliness of your wheels.

Sachs' Stabilus/Lift-O-Mat brand is the major supplier of hood, trunk and tailgate shocks on all European cars. The replacements are exactly the same specs as that which was on your car on the showroom floor so you know when you buy Stabilus you'll be able to restore the lift that you expect when you open your door.

Once again, Autohaus stocks a large assortment of Sachs and Boge products - all of which are OEM/OES and are either on your car already or are factory-approved as a replacement part. And, like Bosch, Sachs stands behind their products with a minimum 12-month warranty - lifetime on shocks.

ATE supplies brake and hydraulic components as an OE supplier to most European car makers. From calipers to master cylinders to brake discs, brake drums and much more, somewhere on your car is the name ATE!

Balo brake rotors were the OE brand on BMWs throughout the 1990s and continue to be the major supplier to European car makers. For quality of manufacture, resistance to warping and superior fit and performance, Balo is the professional's rotor of choice for most BMW models.

Bando is the OEM belt of choice for all Asian cars. It's designed to properly fit the pulley grooves at the correct ride level to give superior performance and durability.

Behr has long been known for its refrigeration and cooling system parts on Mercedes Benz and BMW. From A/C parts to radiators and thermostats to A/C control systems, Behr is the OE brand on many European cars. Through its worldwide affiliations with other companies, its name is also found on many replacement refrigeration and cooling system parts for other makes of automobiles.

Brembo brake discs, designed specifically for the Formula One racing circuit, are now offered for street use. Since 1961, Brembo has been the exclusive supplier of brake calipers to Porsche and brake rotor supplier to racers worldwide (FIA Rally, Formula One, CART, NASCAR, Porsche, Ferrari and more). You can't do any better for fit and performance than Brembo.

Continental (aka CRP, Conti, or Conti-Tech), according to most experts, is the only belt you should put on European cars. Continental is an OE supplier and its superior, service-free belts outlast any other brand on the market. Continental also produces many of the OE hoses found on your car.

Daikin is one of a group of affiliated clutch brands manufactured in Japan for Honda, Nissan and Toyota. It is a market brand containing the original FCC clutch products found on these cars. With original material, fit and performance, Daikin is the clutch component brand to use on your Japanese car.

Febi Bilstein is known for OE suspension and steering systems. From Bilstein shocks and struts to Febi bushings, tie rods and control arms, you're assured of high quality products from Febi Bilstein.

FHE is synonymous with BMW radiators but it also manufactures replacement radiators for other European cars. Used first as the factory replacement brand by BMW, it is considered one of the top quality radiators for all applications for which it is available.

Fichtel-Sachs clutches - see Sachs Boge above.

FTE/FAG is world-renowned for its bearings, tensioner assemblies and hydraulic cylinders. Again, another brand name that probably came as standard equipment on your car.

Girling/Lucas is another large OE manufacturer of brake and hydraulic products. If you don't have an all ATE brake system, it probably has the Girling/Lucas name on it.

GK, a division of Kolbenschmidt, is an OE manufacturer of water pumps. They offer superior quality and performance for German cars.

Jurid brake pads (a division of Bendix/Allied Signal) were the OE brand on BMWs throughout the 1990s and continue to be the major supplier in Europe. For fit, finish and performance, you can't do better than Jurid for your BMW.

Kolbenschmidt is an OE brand name that can be found on hundreds of quality metal parts throughout the European car market - engine blocks, pistons, bearings, induction pipes, water pumps and other high-grade components. With such diverse and time-tested engine experience, Kolbenschmidt is a testimonial to "competence around the engine".

Laso offers superior quality OE water pumps for Mercedes and BMW.

Lemfoerder is the OE brand for heavy metal parts on most BMWs, such as control arms, support arms and bushings. Lemfoerder is always the highest quality original equipment (OE) brand you can find. Now also known for many other automotive parts and kits, you can count on Lemfoerder to be a perfect fit every time.

Lobro, a division of GKN Drivetech, is the OE CV joint, U-joint and axle boot king for European cars. GKN is the largest manufacturer of new OE constant velocity products with over 40% of the total world market. In fact, GKN has been the world leader in front-wheel drive engineering for almost 40 years.

Mahle/Knecht, Hengst, Mann-Hummel and Crosland are all high-quality OE suppliers in Europe of various automotive filters. Air filters, fuel filters, oil filters, power steering filters and AC/pollen/micro filters are the most common maintenance items on cars today and these quality brands will ensure OE specification service, fit and performance.

Meyle Products, located in Hamburg, Germany, offers a constantly expanding range of high-quality steering and suspension products (tie rods, center/drag link, control arms, support arms, ball joints, bushings and kits and more) for European cars.

Mintex brake pads - see Sachs Boge above.

Nissens is a Danish alternative radiator brand for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Saab and Volvo. These radiators incorporate all the latest updates to OE specs, fit exactly as the original brands and are often a more cost-effective solution than the OE brand.

NSK, GMB, KML and FCC - These four Asian manufacturers offer a wide range of OE components (bearings, water pumps, clutches and more) for both Asian and European cars. Superior design and durability make these products the best you can buy for Asian cars.

Ocap engineers and supplies steering and suspension sub-systems for some of the most prestigious sports cars, private passenger cars and special vehicle manufacturers in the world. OCAP's strength lies in its dynamism and expertise to partner with OE manufacturers from the earliest stages of designing and engineering to FEM analysis and bench testing.

Pagid brake pads are an OE or better alternative brand and are preferred by many professionals for numerous European cars. As an OE supplier of brake pads for Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Saab, Volkswagen and Volvo, these pads have the most up-to-date formulation and shims for optimal performance and noise reduction.

PBR Deluxe (Axxis, Repco, MetalMaster) is a brand that's changed its name several times over the past several years but not its high quality. Although not OE on any car, PBR Deluxe brand pads are a popular replacement brand for most car makes. In the standard "Deluxe" line, they produce an organic pad that performs quietly and cleanly on your import car. The "MetalMaster" line of full metallic pads are a durable, high-quality, all-metallic pad designed for certain applications to either replace semi-metallics or extend pad life.

Pierburg appears on several fuel pumps in Volvo and Saab cars and is an excellent alternative for many other cars. The compact design and quiet operation of the Pierburg pumps are renowned.

SKF is the leading global supplier of products, solutions and services in the rolling bearing and seals business. SKF was founded in Sweden in 1907 and currently operates 76 production sites in 22 countries. They are reknowned for their high quality products for a wide variety of car makes.

Stabilus hood, trunk and tailgate shocks - see Sachs Boge above.

Textar brake pads are the OE pads on most Mercedes-Benz cars and have been for many, many years. Formulated for quiet operation and high performance, there are no better pads for most Mercedes original applications.

VDO-Siemens is world renowned for its electrical parts, pumps, sensors and switches. An OE brand on many European cars, VDO is now part of the Mannesmann-Sachs group of companies. This partnership merges their respective areas of long-established expertise and sets new standards in automotive design by fusing technological know-how with a dynamic, synergistic approach.

Victor Reinz, Goetze, Meistersatz, ElringKlinger are the four companies representing nearly every OE gasket or seal found in European cars. If you need a seal or gasket - from valve cover gaskets to head sets to axle seals - it will probably have one of these names on it at Autohaus.

Zimmermann brake rotors were our original and only Porsche brake rotor supplier but they have expanded tremendously over the past few years. The quality is second to none as replacement on all late model import cars - not just Porsche - with the high demand on ABS high-pressure systems. Heat fade resistance and longevity are Zimmermann's strong suits and Zimmermann brake rotors are one of your best buys for great braking performance.

Adler, Nissin and NTP OEM hydraulic products are known for their durability and proper fit. This is the only master cylinder you want to put on Hondas.

Spark plugs : The spark plugs must be removed and inspected for every 30,000 miles. This ensures that the plugs do not seize in the block and cause expensive repairs. Note the cylinder from which the spark plug comes as this can help in identification of cylinder problem.

Distributor cap and rotor : The distributor cap as well as rotor are made of plastic and tend to deteriorate with age as well as use. Cracks tend to develop and this may allow the moisture to seep in. The metal contacts can corrode on both ends causing misfiring. These parts must be replaced if they show excessive wear or at recommended intervals.

Spark Plug wire sets : Spark plug wires should be tested for resistance before they are replaced.

Filters : Changing filters regularly may help with longevity of your Honda.

1. Oil filters can be easily replaced and prevent unnecessary wearing of engine. The oil filter removes solid contaminants, rust and soot from the oil. Oil filters must be replaced for every 3,000 miles.
2. Air filters trap particles when air passes through filter media thereby removing dirt. They protect carburetor in older cars ensuring dirt does not clog air bleeds as well as metering jets. They must be replaced for every 20000 miles and frequently if you live in dusty areas. Any heavily loaded filter or damaged filter should be replaced.
3. The PCV breather filter allows clean and filtered air to be drawn through PCV breather. Sludge buildup and oil breakdown are caused by clogged breather filter. A PCV breather filter must be replaced for every 30,000 miles.
4. Fuel filter traps contaminants and prevents them from getting in the fuel system. If not trapped they may clog injector inlet screens. Dirt reaching the injector can clog seat or the pintle valve and plug the fuel metering orifices of the carburetor. Replacement of fuel filter should be done every 30000 miles though yearly replacement is advised by experts.
5. Correctly filtered transmission fluid lubricates and cools moving parts of transmission and transmits energy. Transmission filter should be changed every 12000 to 15000 miles.

Other maintenance pointers : Some maintenance aspects are thought to be less important. Even though they may not be crucial, these parts can benefit the tune-up.

1. Replace the oxygen sensor at recommended intervals. A worn out oxygen sensor can change the engine settings.
2. Vacuum hoses must be checked and replacement done as per the requirements. Even small leaks can cause performance problems.
3. Temperature sensors control the cooling system, fuel injection system, and exhaust system and should be checked regularly.

Extending the life of your Honda car by following some important tips :

1. Cleanliness of the Honda engine is the best maintenance as a clean engine tends to run cooler and poses fewer problems like premature failure of the other parts.
2. Routine replacement of lubricants, filters, and the other parts is extremely important. Follow the mileage guidelines as the benchmark.
3. Understand your Honda car's systems and its requirements. Do not fix something that you don't understand.

Contaminants in the air, oil, dirt and sunlight are some aspects that adversely affect the condition of the windshield wiper blades. Exposure to sunlight causes aging of the wiper blades even if they are not used too much. Freezing temperatures can turn the rubber in the wiper blades brittle and hard, increasing their tendency to tear. Hot weather in turn can warp the rubber and prevent blades from wiping the windshield cleanly.

Heavy use can be hard on wipers due to dirt, dust and abrasives. Deterioration of rubber over time is natural. With aging, blades lose their flexibility and cannot wipe very cleanly. They may develop curvature preventing complete contact with the windshield.

The windshield blades can clean glass depending on

1. The windshields have greater slope for better aerodynamics. With a "cab-forward" windshield that is a large glass area to be covered directing more wind and resistance against the wipers. This can cause the blades to go away from the glass unless it is designed to such a resist lift.
2. The wiper refill should be in close tight contact with windshield for greater squeegee effect.
3. Blades with more claws can cover broader areas over which wiper arm pressure is spread.
4. The material used in the blade is also important. Some wiper blades combine soft pliable rubber on the surface with firm rubber body for greater support as well as durability.

Bosch Micro Edge as well as Micro Edge Excel wiper blades are aerodynamically shaped using synthetic compound providing excellent flexibility. The heavy gauge steel frame provides excellent stability and multipoint suspension eliminated smearing as well as streaking. The blades have contact points that help increase contact pressure and eliminate blade life off even at high speeds.

Tips for peak wiper blade performance :

1. The Honda wiper blades should be replaced every 6000 miles or after every 6 months.
2. You can just replace the refills and you also have the option of replacing the blades. It is advisable to replace the complete assembly since its easier to install and provides greater benefits.

The battery starts the engine and is a 12 volts storage device that operates the different electrical accessories within your Honda. The battery has six cells of positive and negative stacked lead plates. These are separated by insulators and are immersed in electrolyte, a mixture of water as well as sulfuric acid. Each of the cells generates 2.1 volts with total energy of 12.6 volts.

The chemical reaction occurring between the electrolyte and lead plates causes dangerous and explosive gases to be created. For this reason care must be taken while jump starting low batteries. Ensure that the battery is clean so as to allow for proper ventilation.

Some batteries have gel to replace electrolyte and the "maintenance-free" batteries used in recent times have eliminated the need to refill the electrolyte. However with time all batteries lose capacity to charge due to loss of electrolyte, breakdown of connections and deterioration of plates.

If your Honda exhibits signs of starting system failure or charging failure then a visual as well as voltage test should be performed on the battery. Simply a good DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), some common sense, time and battery charger is needed to analyze the battery condition. Different batteries have differently colored eyes on the battery which means different things. The eye on the battery should be observed to determine the condition of the battery.

Brand Names	Charge Indicator Color	Battery Charge Condition
Atlas, Delco, Delkor	Green	Good
Atlas, Delco, Delkor	Dark	Needs Charging
Atlas, Delco, Delkor	Clear or Light Yellow	Low fluid level; battery should be replaced
Rocket, Solite, Yuasa	Blue or Green	Good
Rocket, Solite, Yuasa	White	Needs Charging
Rocket, Solite, Yuasa	Red	Low fluid level; battery should be replaced

The battery as well as the electrical system of the car should be tested before replacing the battery. Normally batteries last 3-5 years in normal climates but in high heat or extremely cold areas these last only 2-3 years. The battery to be replaced should have similar or high CCA rating (cold cranking amps) compared to the original. It should be of same or compatible "group size" so as to fit the battery tray along with the cable connections.

The Honda alternator is responsible for producing electricity which is used to maintain battery storage charge and this helps in running of electrical accessories like ignition and engine control systems. This is belt-driven by the engine and generates alternating current (AC), which is internally converted to 12 volts direct current (DC). This is done by rectifiers or Diode Bridge.

AC current is efficiently produced but cannot be stored and so cars do not use generators. Instead alternators are used and they convert electricity to DC. Alternators nowadays use internal voltage regulators so as to maintain proper system voltage ranging from 12.6 to14.5 volts. Using the Honda's repair manual or checking with the local dealer you can get the exact proper voltage for the Honda car.

The alternator does not work constantly to produce electricity but cycles on and off based on demand. It is buffered by the battery and works enough so as to maintain the system voltage. At peak efficiency the alternator charges for not more than 50% of the time. Extraneous electrical devices place considerable demands on the system and this stresses the battery further.

The idiot light can help in identification of problem. For this the ignition switch can be turned "on" without starting the engine. If the light is on then the wiring is good but alternator may be defective. If the light is not on then the wiring and the bulb in the light circuit should be checked. The fuse controlling the light circuit should also be checked. The fuse may be called "regulator", "engine", "charging", "gauges" or "meters". If the fuse is gone, then the idiot light may come and not go off.

If a car sits idle for long time period during high heat a number of things contribute to "low" alternator output. With reduced charging capacity the alternator may be able to produce only up to 70% of its rated output. So an alternator with rated 100 amps may be able to deliver 70 amps when idle in hot conditions when in fact the demand is 77 or more amps.

The Delco CS series alternators can be checked with a tool from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B). This isolates the alternator from the wiring harness and allows you to see if the fault is with the alternator or there is wiring problem elsewhere in wiring harness. This tool is handheld and compact and does not require interpretation of data.

Diagnosing Honda starter problems and resolving them
The Honda starter is a simple DC motor turning the engine crankshaft through flywheel and starting the combustion process through creation of compression in the cylinders. The battery is responsible for supplying voltage to starter.

Starters can be old heavy starters, permanent-magnet types or gear-reduction types. Start your Honda while the major components like high powered stereos, blower motor and AC compressor are turned off. Check the electrical system while replacing the starter unit.

Maintenance of Honda's Electrical system
The electrical system of your Honda car should be checked and tested every two years. Measure circuit loads using a ammeter and circuit voltage drops using a DVOM. Load testing should be done by turning on the lights and accessories.

Final tips to extend the life of your Honda's electrical system

1. Ensure that the battery and connections are clean. This does not overtax your starter and also allows ventilation for the explosive gases from the battery.
2. While replacing battery get one with same or high CCA rating and one that has compatible group size.
3. Do not jump start the Honda car by using another running car since the electrical systems are different.
4. Turn off the major electrical systems like stereo, air conditioner before starting the car.
5. Check the electrical system of your Honda once every two years.

The oxygen sensor was introduced by Bosch in 1976 and is one of the crucial and important technologies responsible for limiting exhaust emissions. Nowadays Bosch oxygen sensors tend to be used on a variety of vehicles including Asian, European as well as domestic vehicles. Honda is one of the brands which use this technology. Oxygen sensors are present on cars and most vehicles have one or two oxygen sensors. With introduction of Onboard Diagnostics II (OBD II) the importance of oxygen sensors and its use has become even more important.

Even then many people are not aware of their presence or how important they are for reducing pollution and optimising engine performance. Surveys indicate that as many as 99.7% of all customers were unaware of the presence of oxygen sensor in their vehicle!

Oxygen Sensor - Fighting pollution

Oxygen sensor was used in fuel-injected cars and was called Lambda sensor initially. It is responsible for monitoring the level of oxygen within the exhaust and this allows the onboard computer to regulate the air/fuel mixture so as to reduce emissions. This sensor is positioned between the catalytic converter(s) and the exhaust manifold(s) or before the catalytic converter in the exhaust manifold downpipe(s). The machine generates voltage signal that is proportional to oxygen amount in the exhaust.

A zirconium ceramic bulb is used as a sensing element and this is coated with a thin platinum layer on both sides. This allows the outside portion of the bulb to be exposed to hot exhaust gases. With clean combustion and balanced air/fuel mixture the voltage in the sensor output is around 0.45 volts. With lean air/fuel mixture the voltage is 0.1 to 0.3 volts. With rich air/fuel mixture and less O2 the voltage is 0.8 to 0.9 volts.

The engine management computer regulates the fuel mixture based on the voltage signals. At high voltage the fuel mixture is commanded to go lean while at low voltage the fuel mixture is made rich. This ensures that emissions are minimised and the catalytic converter can operate efficiently to reduce levels of hydrocarbon (HC), oxides of nitrogen (NOX) and carbon monoxide. The speed at which the oxygen sensor reacts is important for fuel control, low emissions and fuel economy.

Aging Oxygen sensors hamper the car performance and increase emissions.
With time, the oxygen sensor ages and combustion contaminants and oil ash tends to accumulate on sensing element. This reduces response time of the sensor and it becomes slow or sluggish. With consistently rich air/fuel mixture in varying conditions the fuel consumption as well as emissions may rise.

Without proper care oxygen sensor failure can result in big expenses.
Contamination from internal leaks, dirt and normal aging can all result in oxygen sensor failure. Faulty sensory may result in onboard computer making faulty air/fuel corrections causing rich air/fuel mixture and this can result in high emissions and fuel consumption. Oxygen sensor failure may also cause damage to catalytic converter causing the converter to run hotter. The catalyst substrate may melt forming blockages and this may result in drastic drop in the highway performance or complete stalling. This may happen due to buildup of backpressure within the exhaust system.

Learn about the right time to replace your Honda oxygen sensor.
Some cars may have a "reminder" light for oxygen sensor to give alerts about the time to check the oxygen sensor. Emissions testing can help in detecting emissions problems but that would mean you can only detect a bad sensor when your fail the emission test. The performance of an Oxygen sensor may be checked by checking the output voltage and ensuring that it is it corresponding with the level of air/fuel mixture (high when rich and low when lean). An oscilloscope can be used to read the output voltage of the sensor to check its response.

Timely replacement of oxygen sensor can be a good preventive maintenance step.
Oxygen sensors need to be replaced at certain intervals based on their make.

1. Unheated oxygen sensors used in vehicles between 1976 to early 1990 need replacement every 30000 to 50000 miles.
2. Heated oxygen sensors (1st generation) used in vehicles between mid 1980s to mid 1990s need replacement every 60000 miles.
3. Heated oxygen sensors (2nd generation) used in vehicles between mid 1990s and the newer vehicles need replacement every 100000 miles.

Fresh oxygen sensor can improve the Honda's fuel economy by 10%-15% which can help you save $100 in fuel cost each year.

Bosch Oxygen Sensors - the perfect replacement for your original oxygen sensor

With Bosch oxygen sensors, the number of wires as well as connectors is the same as the original which eliminates problems associated with crimping and splicing wires otherwise required for replacement oxygen sensors.

Other universal oxygen sensors also do not possess the same heater circuit watt ratings as the OE sensor and it may cause driveability as well as emissions problems in your car. The computer sa well as oxygen sensor may be damaged if the multiwire universal sensor is not connected correctly.

Some simple tips can help you pass your emissions tests and reduce your repair costs.

1. Driveability issues, increased fuel consumption, illuminated "check engine light" and failure or emissions test may be indicative of need to replace the oxygen sensor.
2. Failure of oxygen sensor may cause damage to the catalytic converter of your Honda.
3. Anytime your Honda fails the emission test, it is the time to check the oxygen sensor as well as feedback control system.

American automobile producers started in 1950 by stamping identifying numbers on the cars and parts. The purpose was to have accurate description of cars since mass production was being done. Early VINs were in several variations based on the manufacturer.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration from early 1980s started requiring all road vehicles to have a 17-character VIN. This resulted in establishment of the fixed VIN system and created unique numbers for each vehicle manufactured. The Vehicle identification numbers contains 17 characters and may include capital letter from A to Z and the numbers from 1 to 0. The letters O,Q and I are not used to avoid mistakes that may occur in the event of misreading. Spaces or signs are also not allowed in this number.

Position of letter or the number in VIN provides information about place and time when your Honda was manufactured, its engine type, model or car series, equipment along with its sequence of production. Every character in the number has a particular purpose.

The 1st character of the vehicle identification number reflects the country in which it was manufactured.

VIN Character 1 - Manufacturing Country Codes
1 or 4	2	3	J	K	S	W	Z
USA	Canada	Mexico	Japan	Korea	England	Germany	Italy

The 2nd character reflects the manufacturer.

VIN Character 2 - Car Manufacturer Codes
A	B	H	A	D	N	T	V	V
Audi	BMW	Honda	Jaguar	Mercedes	Nissan	Toyota	Volvo	VW

The 3rd character indicates the type of vehicle or the manufacturing division.

The 4th to 8th characters in the VIN reflect the features/attributes including body style, model engine type, series, etc. This is different for different car makes, equipment and models.

The 9th character is used for verification of previous numbers in the VIN. This digit may be a single number or letter "X" which is used for verification of accuracy of the vehicle identification number.

The 10th character in the VIN reflects the model year.

VIN Character 10 - Model Year Codes
1971	1972	1973	1974	1975	1976	1977	1978	1979	1980
1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	A
1981	1982	1983	1984	1985	1986	1987	1988	1989	1990
B	C	D	E	F	G	H	J	K	L
1991	1992	1993	1994	1995	1996	1997	1998	1999	2000
M	N	P	R	S	T	V	W	X	Y
2001	2002	2003	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010
1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	A

The 11th character in your Honda's vehicle identification number reveals the assembly plant for the vehicle.

The 12th to 17th character in the VIN indicates the sequence of production for the vehicle when it was rolled to the assembly line. The four characters in the end are always numeric.

Finding the VIN for your Honda

The VIN for a car is normally located at several places on a car and the common places are:

• Door frame/door post of front doors (normally driver's side but at times on passenger's side)
• On firewall of the car
• On engine
• On dash near windshield
• In left-hand inner wheel arch
• On steering wheel or steering column
• On radiator support bracket
• On your car's registration, title, guarantee/maintenance book or the declarations page of auto insurance policy

For Honda cars, the VIN plate is located on top right of the firewall and the 10th character in the VIN represents the production year. With the help of several online resources available, you can decode your Honda's VIN. Using these resources, you can enter the Honda VIN and email address and get complete information about your car. You can also get CarFAX vehicle history report. With the help of your VIN details, you can easily identify the repair parts that can perfectly fit your Honda.

Modern cars are built to give good service for 30,000 miles or even more without tune ups. However it is important to frequently check the car so that small things do not snowball into expensive problems.

Checking the Honda car's fluids :
Before changing any fluids in your Honda car, check the car owner's manual to identify the manufacturer's OE oil specifications. The OE oils as well as coolants are mixable with some off the shelf items and this can be checked and used for emergency purposes. However using off the shelf products may not be advisable in the long run. In emergencies you can add usual 30W oil to around $5 quart synthetics and this is applicable for water and coolants also. Hydraulic oils however have specifications regarding the required viscosity as well as liquid type. So it important that you check the owner's manual before adding anything to your Honda car.

Oil : It is important to check the oil of your car when the engine is warm since oil tends to expand when hot and contracts when cold.

1. The oil can be checked after parking the car on level surface.
2. Turn off the engine and wait for around 10 minutes before opening the hood to check the oil. This waiting period allows the oil to drain down in the crankcase and this ensures that the reading is not wrong.
3. Take the dipstick which is a metal piece located near the spark plug. Clean it and push it all the way in to get the oil reading. Pull out the dipstick and check if the level is below the line indicating 'full oil'. If the level is less then you can proceed to add oil less than one quarter of quart with the aid of a funnel. In case the dipstick has two lines bearing cross hatch design between the lines, ensure that the oil level is halfway between the lines.
4. Oil can be added by unscrewing of oil filler cap on the engine. It is important to check the level of oil after it is added. The oil should be added slowly since it is difficult to remove it if excess oil is added. The car should preferably have two quarts oil and the car manual should be referred to in order to identify the kind of motor oil required by the engine. If you only need to add a small amount of oil then it is alright to mix the oils of different types but you should always ensures that you use the oil specified for your engine.

Since the oil system in the car is closed one, the oil levels should not be too low on a consistent basis. This is because the oil does not go anywhere and is not used up. If the oil levels are too low, then you might be experiencing an oil leak. In case you suspect an oil leak, it is important to get your car checked with an experienced Honda mechanic.

Soft, mushy pedals may be a sign of low brake fluid levels.
The brake fluid is also important for smooth functioning of the car and should be checked regularly. To check the Honda car's brake fluid you need to complete the following steps :

1. The brake master cylinder should be identified. This is located on driver's side of car under the hood and can be accessed towards back area of engine compartment. This small rectangular metal piece has a rubber cap and plastic reservoir along with small metal tubes that lead from it.
2. The rubber cap of the master cylinder tends to read "Use only DOT (Department of transportation) 3 or 4 brake fluid from sealed container". In new model cars this reservoir is translucent and one can see the level of the fluid even if the cap is not removed. The brake fluid level should be at the "full line".
3. In older model cars you may have to remove the metal top using a screwdriver. You can then fill the brake fluid based on the instructions in the owner's manual regarding the grade of brake fluid needed for the car. In case the reservoir comprises of two parts both the halves should be filled with brake fluid. Since this brake fluid tends to be extremely toxic it should be kept away from hands as well as eyes. Ensure that the empty containers are carefully disposed off and you should avoid spilling it on the ground or on the car paint.

In case of empty brake master cylinder, it is important to bleed the brakes besides adding fluid. This is because the brake pedal tends to go to the floor if the brake master cylinder is empty. An experienced Honda mechanic should be consultant in such cases.

Coolant - Preventing your engine from overheating
Coolant or Radiator fluid is an extremely important component of your Honda car's cooling system. This coolant ensures that your engine does not experience overheating. The following steps can help you in adding coolant to newer car models (models from 1970 and after) :

In case of pre 1970s models, the coolant can be added directly to radiator. In case of newer models, the cars have a reservoir or expansion tank that can be easily accessed. For newer models, the plastic reservoir tank should be located and this is often green or red and is labelled. The tank is close to the radiator and a hose leads from it to the radiator.

1. The coolant should be added after unscrewing the cap till the full line. This coolant is basically a 50-50 mixture consisting of purified water along with antifreeze/coolant. Purified water does not mean tap or distilled water. Avoid adding straight water in case the reservoir is empty as this can result in overheating of the car.
2. The owner's manual will reflect if specific coolant for Honda vehicles is needed.
3. In case the reservoir is under pressure and the car is overheating then it is advisable to avoid removing the reservoir cap as serious burn injuries may occur.

For an older car model (pre-1970 model) these steps can be followed :

1. It is important to ensure that the engine is cool before filling coolant in the radiator. If the car has been used then it is beneficial to wait for around half hour before touching the radiator cap.
2. The radiator cap can be located at the front of engine near hood latch. Use a rag to unscrew the cap. The fluid should reach the top of the radiator below the cap opening. Before filling the coolant refer the owner's manual if specifically formulated coolant is needed. In case the radiator or reservoir is low on coolant then it is an indication of a leak and should be thoroughly checked out. This is because coolant does not get used up.

Hard and laboured steering could be due to low power steering fluid.
These simple steps can resolve the problem:

1. It is important to locate the power steering belt which has a metal or clear plastic reservoir on top. The fluid level can be checked from the side in case it is a plastic type reservoir. In case of metal reservoir the cap can be unscrewed.
2. As per the specifications of the car owner's manual the appropriate power steering fluid for your Honda can be added.
3. Along with the power steering fluid it is also important to check the power steering belt regularly. The power steering fluid levels should not be low and if that is case it may be indicative of leaks.

Avoid improper shifting due to low automatic transmission fluid levels.
The automatic transmission fluid should also be checked on a monthly basis wherever it is applicable.

1. To check the automatic transmission fluid park your Honda car on flat ground and start the engine. Leave the gear in neutral or park mode and once the engine warms up locate the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) dipstick. This is located at the back region of engine. Remove the dipstick, clean it and put it back all the way in the transmission.
2. The dipstick tip may reflect two markings - for cold as well as warm readings. Check if the ATF reflects "full" levels for warm readings. Fill the ATF fluid if needed but do not overfill as excess ATF fluid can cause it to foam and damage the transmission due to excess pressure build-up.
3. The owner's manual can identify whether you need to fill Dexron also known as Mercron or Type F automatic transmission fluid.
4. While filling ATF ensure that the fluid does not come in contact with the exhaust manifold as this may result in fire. It is also advisable to turn off the engine as there is a possibility of spillage. Since this fluid is not used up low levels may reflect possible leakages and these should be investigated and corrected.

If your car has a stick shift (manual transmission) with hydraulic clutch then you need to check the hydraulic clutch fluid on a monthly basis.

1. Simply turn off the engine and open the car hood. Identify a small plastic container which is around 1 inch in diameter near the back region of the engine. You may find this near brake fluid reservoir. While it looks similar to a brake fluid reservoir it is smaller.
2. The reservoir should have brake fluid filled to the top. If your car has a clutch cable then you do not need any fluid as these cars do not have hydraulic clutches.
3. In case the clutch reservoir is low then you need to investigate the possibility of a leak.

Windshield Washer Fluid: Keeping your windshield clean

1. The first step to filling windshield washer fluid is to turn the engine off. After ensuring that you're Honda has cooled down you can locate the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. This reservoir has a hose leading to the windshield.
2. The top of the reservoir should be opened and fluid should be filled if the level is less than 3/4 full. The fluid has detergent and antifreeze to efficiently clean the windshield and also to ensure that the fluid does not freeze within the reservoir. Don't add water instead of the windshield wiper fluid.

Problems in your Honda car hoses can cause overheating or leakages.
Radiator hoses comprises of two hoses attached to radiator. To check these hoses they should be squeezed while the engine is cold. If the hoses feel crunchy or brittle then they need replacement and are old. The clamps at the end of the hoses should also be checked. In case the hoses are wet at the clamp the clamps should be tightened or replaced. In case of cracks or tearing in the hoses they should be replaced.

Noisy Honda belts may need tightening or replacement.

1. If your Honda car belts make shrieking noise when you press the gas pedal then they are loose and need tightening or replacement. To check the belts ensure that the engine is turned off and is cool. The belts are located at the front of engine. For a front wheel drive automobile the front of engine is adjacent to fender while with rear wheel drive the front of engine is adjacent to radiator and front bumper. You also need to check the belts used to operate air conditioner, fan, power steering pump; smog pump and water pump wherever applicable.
2. The belt can be checked by pressing lightly with the thumb between the longest regions between pulleys. For serpentine belts tension gauges can be used to check the belt. For Honda cars, belts should not give more than 1 inch in either direction.

Identifying leaks in your Honda car with just a glance

1. Among the different fluids used in the car gasoline as well as windshield wiper fluids tend to get used up while rest maintain their levels. A visual inspection of the engine can help you identify possible leakages.
2. The green and sticky fluid tends to be coolant while bluish watery fluid is the windshield wiper fluid. Dark and greasy fluid is the engine oil while honey or dark thick fluid that has chestnut like smell is the gear oil. Brake fluid tends to be clear or yellowish in color. Power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid tends to be slippery and reddish. Gasoline leakages can be easily smelled.
3. Checking the underside of the car can help you identify leakages.
4. You can also lay a large piece of cardboard under the car so as to allow the engine to sit over it. You can mark the wheels position and check the cardboard for dripping the next day.

Other things that need to be incorporated in monthly checks include

1. Battery should be visually inspected for corrosion near the cable ends.
2. Ensure that the headlights, taillights, back up lights, dash lights, turn signals and brake lights are in perfect working condition.
3. Check the tire pressure for all tires and visually check them for signs of excessive wear and tear.